Learn To Surf

The low down on the drop in! Beginner's guide to surfing

hanalei

Surfing is all about having fun riding waves. Before getting started you should be able to swim and feel comfortable in the water. If you have this down, with the right location, good equipment, an understanding of the rules of the water and inherent dangers involved in surfing, you'll be up and riding waves in no time!

Let's Get Started!

Take a surf lesson - A lesson will get you riding waves faster and safer than going out on your own. If you don't want to shell out the bucks for a lesson or are too cool for one, definitely keep reading...
Wave knowledge is crucial to surfing - You can't catch what you don't understand. A boogie board and fins is a great way to learn how to recognize when a wave is coming, catch a wave, and get back out. Riding waves is a thrill even on your belly. You will catch more waves and have more fun on a boogie board while you are still figuring out the motion of the ocean. Remember to never paddle out into something you couldn't handle without your fins!
Watch other surfers to help your own skills - Even expert surfers watch surf videos and other experts to improve their surfing. Just remember not to get in their way. The most dangerous thing about surfing is other surfers (see dangers for more).
Learning to surf is a lesson in humility - Don't expect to be good in a day, a week, or even a year. It takes years of dedication to master the sport - just when you think you are there, you find yourself gasping for air and coughing up salt water after getting rag dolled.

Choosing A Location

Where you paddle out can make or break your surf session. Also, a beach that was great for surfing one day may not necessarily be great for surfing the next – depending on the tide and current ocean conditions. Having said that, here's what to look for in a beginning surf location:

Small and calm waves - You obviously don't want large rough waves, leave that to the experts.
Waves breaking on a sand bottom - Hitting a sandy bottom is softer than hitting reef!
Light or offshore winds (see surf terms) - Onshore winds create rough conditions.
Uncrowded spots - You don't want to hit anyone and you don't want someone hitting you!

Check out our recommended beaches for learning to surf »

Equipment

Surfboards come in all shapes and sizes. Picking the right board for your skill level is crucial to catching waves and standing up. A surfboard longer than eight feet with a wide, rounded nose is a good board to begin. A soft foam board (used for surf lessons) is even better because it hurts less if it whacks you. Wearing a leash is a good idea so your board stays close by and doesn't go hurling into other people.

Rules of the Water (How Not to be a Kook)

Here are some general rules to remember while out in the water. They are the unspoken rules of surfing that apply everywhere in the world.

If someone is up and riding toward you, do not drop in (see surf terms) on them. Dropping in on other surfers could get you pounded by a local.
The surfer closest to the peak has priority to take off
Don't sit and gawk at a surfer riding toward you, move out of the way
Be courteous, one kook in the water can ruin it for everyone
Don't paddle out to waves beyond your surfing capabilities, you put both yourself and other surfers in danger

Dangers

Surfing comes with many inherent dangers. Here are some of them.

Other Surfers - boards, fins, and people get tangled up when surfers run into each other. Most surfing injuries happen because of these collisions.
Ocean - Always use caution. It is a powerful, constantly changing, unpredictable animal. If in doubt, don't go out.
Your Board - try to fall away from your board as the board itself and the fins can cause injury. When renting a board, you may want to look for a soft top surfboard.
Jellyfish - stinging jellyfish (called Portuguese Man of War or pochos) can be blown into the surf zone when the wind is blowing onshore. They have a blue air sac that floats on top of the water and a stinging tentacle that drags below. They are most likely to be found on east shore beaches and can be spotted on the beach in the high tide line.
Sharks - we all know they are out there. Avoid surfing in murky water where you can be easily mistaken for a tasty shark snack.

Before You Paddle Out

Alright, so now you're ready to hit the water, but before you paddle out, take the time to observe the ocean conditions. Waves come in sets and there can be up to 20 minutes between sets. Watch long enough to see at least one set so you don't end up in waves that are too big for you. And if you haven't already, now would be a good time to review the beach safety tips.

What are they talking about? Surf Terms »

Recommended Beaches For Learning To Surf

The following beaches are not great for surfing every day. Where and when you surf should always depend on current ocean conditions. When in doubt - don't go out! Always ask a lifeguard or local if you have any concerns.

Hanalei Bay - In the summer time, Hanalei's shallow, sandy bottom, gentle swells and pristine waters make for perfect conditions for the beginning surfer.
Kealia - Mostly sandy breaks and almost year round surf, make Kealia a great place to get wet with a board. Beware of underwater rocks at both ends of the beach.
Wailua - The extended shallow sand bar where the Wailua river meets the ocean can make for great knee high waves in waist deep water.
Kalapaki - The middle of the bay at Kalapaki serves up gentle rolling waves, perfect for beginning surfers.

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Let's Discuss (28 comments)

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chuck

Jun 29, 2007 2:01PM

I would strongly argue against Kealia as a..

Kauai Explorer Staff

Jun 29, 2007 8:18PM

Chuck had a really good reply but our admin application cut off most of his message!

Anyway Chuck's point was that Kealia is ONSHORE most of the time (trade winds). This creates choppy and persistent waves VS the clean surfing conditions that OFFSHORE winds generate. Beginning surfing is tricky and if you just want to get the feeling of riding waves on a boogie board in front of the lifeguard station - 9 out of 10 days in the year - then Kealia is a good call.

The new facilities and bike path are a wonderful addition to this area.

Chuck if you could resubmit your post it would be appreciated.

ted

Sep 24, 2007 4:26PM

awesome site! I landed a job on Kauai for the winter and want to do a lot of surfing. I have been out on longboards a few times. Anyway, should I try to pick up a board on the mainland, or can I get one on Kauai? (I'm guessing that the answer is yes, but as I've never been to Hawaii, I guess I better be sure). And what about the appropriate neoprene? What do you all recommend for winter, and can I get that on Kauai as well? Thanks!!!

Kauai Explorer Staff

Sep 24, 2007 8:35PM

Ted - all the surf gear you need is right here on Kauai. Hanalei Surf Company holds a swap meet the first Saturday of every month.

Patt

Oct 09, 2007 1:17PM

My husband, granddaughter and myself ( ages 58, 61 and 13 )are coming to Kauai the second week in April/08. We want a great beach to boogieboard ( good sized waves for heavier people - ha ha (1501bs).We will get a cab from the airport to a resort, so a place not too far from the airport would be best ( cheapest ) rather than having to go to Po'pu Beach. Do you have any suggestions for a resort/beach to fit this criteria? Thank you so much. Patt

Kauai Explorer Staff

Oct 10, 2007 7:12AM

Patt - Hanalei Bay or Kealia are good choices for boogie boarding because both have sand bottom and lifeguards. Look for resorts in proximity - but without a car you may have to do some walking or take the County bus.

Vitor

Oct 25, 2007 5:39AM

I´m going to Kauai this Season and would like some tips about the surf arround.I surf since i was a Little boy (I´m 26 now), so how are the surf arround there? Does Hanalei breaks very Often?Can you guys tell me aa little bit more about it?
I´ll be in Princeville, so there are some good spots arround there?!!?
Thank for the help!! Vitor

Kauai Explorer Staff

Oct 25, 2007 6:29AM

From October through May you will find some very good waves on the North Shore - including Hanalei. My suggestion is to explore the various breaks when you arrive (the North Shore of Kauai is not a very large area).

Ashli

Nov 04, 2007 4:18PM

My boyfriend and my four year old daughter are coming to Hawaii in December. I have surfed (mostly in California, Monterey area) for years, but my daughter and boyfriend have never been. She'll be five by the time we go and is a very smart kid so I know she'll catch on. Do you have instructors that will teach a child that young?

Kauai Explorer Staff

Nov 04, 2007 7:29PM

Ashli - go check out Hanalei Surf Company.

tashia

Nov 24, 2007 11:33AM

Great site! I will be coming to Kauai Dec. 5 for 3 months and am planning on camping it at county and state parks. Would you still suggest the north shore for a complete novice? I'm a whitewater kayaker/rafter and have surfed kayaks in waves in the Outer Banks, NC. Will be my first time on a board. Any suggestions on fave campgrounds, beginner beaches, and hikes? thanks a toN!

Kauai Explorer Staff

Nov 25, 2007 7:24AM

Hello Tashia - Hanalei Bay is a good place to learn because of the sand bottom. Tune into changing conditions and observe areas on the bay where other beginners are surfing. Na Pali and Kokee are great hiking / camping. Most of the other info you are seeking is already on the site. Aloha.

Elizabeth

Nov 27, 2007 2:28PM

We will be visiting Kaui Dec 2008 and staying at the Marriott's Waiohai Beach Club..It is located on Poipu Road, Koloa-Kauai. My son likes to surf and has been surfing moderately for a couple years. Are the beaches near there good for surfing that time of year? He is 14 and could probably use some lessons to orient him to the surfing conditions.

What other water sports, etc. are available there?

Kauai Explorer Staff

Nov 28, 2007 9:22PM

Hello Elizibeth - Poipu is on the South shore of Kauai. During winter months the predominant pattern is one where storms in the North Pacific create surf for North and West shores of all Hawaiian islands. Do not expect much surf in December on the South shore. On the other hand the diving, swimming, and snorkeling will probably be great. If you do want to find surf in Winter then you can take the 1 hour drive to the North shore.

Holly

Dec 13, 2007 11:38PM

Aloha! My mom, brother and I will be in Kauai at the end of Jan 08...can't wait! My brother surfs regularly in Cali and is an advanced surfer. I've been reading about the waves on the North shore in Jan. Should I be concerned about the "Gigantic" waves up north in Jan? How well do you need to surf in order to surf up there? Mahalo!!

Kauai Explorer Staff

Dec 14, 2007 7:07AM

Holly - the surf CAN be giant in January but it can also be small or medium. Usually you can find calmer areas that are matched to your ability. At Hanalei Bay, for example, the closer you go towards the pier, the smaller the surf because it is more protected. The important thing is to know your ability, assess the conditions, look at what other people are doing, ask locals and lifeguards and UNDERSTAND our posted safety concepts. Aloha!

joe

Dec 27, 2007 12:57PM

Hi, I am headed to Hanalei Dolphin restaurant/accomidations for the first two weeks in January. I hope to do lots of Kitesurfing. I would love any advice. I understand the waves can be big or medium this time of year. Do you see people kitesurfing with much consistancy. I heard Anini beach is good as well. Thank you for any advice. I will also be around the airport the first four days of Jan. Any kiteboarding done in this area in Jan. Thanks so much.

Joe

Quynh

Jan 16, 2008 2:51PM

Hi, I will be in Kauai during in March, and I would like to take some photos of adv. or expert surfers. Which beach would you recommended for this time of the year. Thanks.

Kauai Explorer Staff

Jan 16, 2008 5:32PM

Quynh - unusual question. Expert surfers go where the surf is currently happening. Just know that conditions always change. The North and West shores are known for epic surf. If you really want to see expert surfers in action buy a surf mag or movie. Seriously! W

Advice for tourist surfers

Jan 27, 2008 8:12PM

Just wanted to add some advice from a 20+ yr vet of drop knee bodyboarding in the Hawaiian islands (I also surf, bomb hills, & dirtboard). These tips could save your life:

1) WHEN IN DOUBT, DON\'T GO OUT! If the waves look too big for you don\'t go out! If no one\'s out at spot that has waves, there could be a good reason! There might be a reef lurking 1 ft. beneath the surface. There could be a dangerous current. Better, more suitable waves can be found elsewhere. Know your limits of your skill set. If, when you get to a beach, you\'re facing the biggest waves you\'ve ever faced in your life know that testing your limits in Hawaii can lead to permanent injury or death. Not only are those waves going to be more powerful then waves found elsewhere except for Teahupoo, currents are extremely powerful during high surf & can pull a person out to sea where they are one small speck in a gigantic ocean for searchers looking for a person. Large waves have the power to snap bones on direct impact, drive one hard enough into a reef or sand bottom to cause carwreck-like injuries, or even drive one deep into undersea caverns and ledges where panic can lead to drowning. It\'s a sad fact that this message isn\'t included in every tourist packet as they come in on planes. We lose tourists and locals every year to the awesome power of the ironically named Pacific Ocean. Pipeline on Oahu alone averages about one death a year.

2) IF YOU\'RE CAUGHT IN A CURRENT DON\'T PANIC! I can\'t emphasize this enough! People that find themselves being pulled out to sea tend to panic & expend all their energy fighting a river of current going out to sea! This river of current is going to be powerful but only so wide, your goal is to paddle PARALLEL to shore until you\'re free of the outgoing current. THEN start swimming (or paddling if you\'re on a board) back to shore. Pace yourself, you might have a long paddle ahead of you. Try to wave for help from shore, use your swimsuit or top as a flag if you have to. Tread water or back stroke if you need to. If you\'re in a situation where it\'s impossible to get back to shore, try to tread water & stay afloat as long as possible. Searchers will attempt to search areas where they estimate objects would be swept to during the course of time.

3) RESPECT THE LOCALS! Locals have to deal with having their surf spots continually invaded by surfers of usually begginer level every year. It\'s taught me patience. :) Look I know it\'s exciting that you\'re swimming or surfing in Hawaii but watch out for surfers already on a wave or paddling for a wave when they\'re deeper then you. A person is \"deeper\" if they\'re the one that\'s closest to where the wave is peaking. That person has a right to that wave. DON\'T DROP IN ON THEM! Not only could you ruin a perfect wave for them (& believe me, perfect waves are rarer then the surf media makes it out to be), you could cause injury to you or the rider on impact. Some locals have resorted to bodily harm in some instances. I know a guy that went to jail for that. So just wait your turn, a wave will come. If you\'re the guy in position & you have the requisite skill level, then more often then not, you can get a wave to yourself! Oh, & while paddling or swimming pay attention to what\'s going on all around you! I can\'t tell you how many times I\'ve almost accidently taken a tourist\'s head off but was able to dodge at the last minute no thanks to said clueless tourist. Hey, these boards can hurt if they hit you! A surfer is mostly focusing on where the wave will be breaking and sometimes not what\'s directly in front of them. Unbeknownst to the media, local surfers save lives all the time but it never makes the news. So respect the locals because they might be saving you one day. One time when I was a teenager a father on vacation offered me & my friend $20 for rescuing his two daughters being pulled out to see at Kahaluu on the Big Isle. LOL, like you could put a price tag on that. Course I didn\'t take the money.

Marlayna McNeil

Feb 05, 2008 8:41PM

I have a question. My family and I will be at the Marriot Waiohai from 2/15-2/20. Where is the closest location to learn to surf? Where is the best location to learn to surf, at this time of year?

I've been a 'water' person almost all my life: competitive swimmer, city lifeguard for 4-years, bodysurfing and outrigger canoeing. My oldest son, he's 11, and I would like to take a lesson together.

Mahalo.

Kauai Explorer Staff

Feb 06, 2008 6:59PM

Aloha Marlayna. On the South side of the island in February, you may find lake-like surf conditions. Of course, conditions vary and you'll be very close to Poipu Beach Park, where there is a lifeguard and a surf shop next to the restaurant there. Talk to the lifeguards about ocean conditions and check in at the surf shop to get more info about lessons and the best spot to go out. Enjoy! J

Shannon

Feb 09, 2008 6:57PM

My family and I are going to be in Kauai towards the end of July this coming summer. I was wondering what kind of surf I should be able to expect on this island during this time of year. I am an experience surfer from California, but never surfed in the Hawaiian islands. What are some surf spots that I should seek out and are there any spots that I should avoid (localism)?

Kauai Explorer Staff

Feb 11, 2008 8:31PM

Aloha Shannon. Surf is generally flat on the North Shore in the summer with bigger swells on the South and West side. Ask lifeguards or check out or site's Daily Ocean Report for conditions when you're here. As a surfer yourself, you probably understand that we aren't going to recommend specific surf spots. J

Derrick B

Feb 21, 2008 9:03PM

I will be staying at Pono/Kai in early July. Will there be any waves there?
Also, I plan to travel with my surfboard (6\'4 Fish). What is the best way to transport it to the island, or would it be easier to rent a board for the entire week?

Kauai Explorer Staff

Feb 21, 2008 9:14PM

Aloha Derrick,
Pono Kai is in Kapaa on the East side. Generally the summer months see the biggest waves on the South and West shores, which would be within driving distance (30 min - 1.5 hours). The East side can still see a swell in the summer. There is no real way to predict. As for transporting a board, the standard travel board bag is recommended. You'll check it with your luggage. Whether or not you rent is really a matter of preference. I'm not sure if there are companies that rent anything besides the foam longboards. Have a great trip. J

2 Malibu Longboarders

Apr 08, 2008 11:13PM

Honeymoon on South Shore first week of August. Are we going to find anything? Waist to chest? Little shoulder? Would be music to our ears. We need more than just a fruity beverage at a resort. Or do we head to Tamarindo? Thanks for your insight!

Kauai Explorer Staff

Apr 09, 2008 6:47PM

Aloha. In August surf is typically medium to large on the South and West shores. Check out this page on our site for more info: http://www.kauaiexplorer.com/guides/beach/seasonal_surf_trends.php.
Can't imagine you'd regret coming to Kauai. Just stay off the North shore when looking for waves that time of year. J

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